Elmina Slave Castle

 

On our way up to Tamale, our group explored the oldest slave castle in West Africa, over 500 years old. It is located on the Cape Coast of Ghana. There were bricks, wood panels, prison bars, and more from when the castle was first built. The rooms echoed a hard hitting history that punched you in the gut when you walked in. The rooms where slaves were kept were small and very crowded with little ventilation and no place to use the bathroom. Those who were sick were thought to be weak and when they died their bodies were thrown to sea. Those who survived were thought of as strong enough to go to the new world.  

Slave Dungeon

We saw a prison for freedom fighters that was dark, hot, and marked with a skull to signify that once entering the dungeon, you would not return alive. The only openings to the dungeon were used for the guards to see when someone starved to death so they could drag them out in front of everyone. The prison for the misbehaving European guards however, was ventilated and they were given water and food and released after a few hours of waiting.

Prison

The women faced even more obstacles.  The governor of the castle would select women to come to his chamber and be raped. If they refused to travel to his apartment, they were chained outside without water or food for days until they said yes. This was a spectacle for the other women so they would not also refuse. If the woman fell pregnant, she would get to live with her child for three years before their child would be sent to school. The mother would then stay in the castle and do domestic work. The shocking reality that being raped and bearing a child for a woman may be the better option than going overseas is a horrific reality.

In the room dubbed "No Return", slaves prepared to embark on a tumultuous trip overseas where they would most likely die on the voyage. The room on our tour was filled with blessings from modern day visitors. Expressions of gratitude covered the floor blessing the sacrifices slaves made before the Slave Trade was abolished.  Candles were lit, crosses were decorated, and notes were left for those who were captured, abused, and taken from their home. The air was heavy in this room, and the history was bleak. 

Tributes in the room of "No Return"

This castle proves how far the Ghanaians have come after being treated as savages by their Portuguese, Dutch and then British colonizers.  When they gained their independence, and the British left, they took all their infrastructure with them. This has led to many growing pains for Ghana's development.

Government and healthcare was created from a a model that was not their own. For over 400 years the colonizers pitted Ghanaians against each other, creating tensions across the country and a sense of protecting your people. There are now significant disparities between the South and North. The South houses the capital, Accra, and has more Governmental support. The rural North faces the greatest challenges, as hospitals are far and few between. Many have to travel a long distance by foot to reach healthcare. Ghana is a young country, and a strong country. Its development makes sense when you understand their history. I feel incredibly lucky to be here.

View from the Governor's Window

Blog written by Nadine.